By Night Train to Southern France
A night train to Ax-les-Thermes in the Pyrenees, a few hours in Paris along the way, and four days trekking through the mountains from hut to hut – a journey full of contrasts: from bustling boulevards to tranquil mountain lakes, from the gentle clatter of the night train to a medley of French, Spanish and Catalan.
Every Beginning Is Easy
The journey began, like so many terran adventures, with the TGV to Paris. Instead of simply passing through the city, we made the most of the few hours we had between changing trains at Paris Gare de Lyon and Paris Austerlitz station: we stowed our luggage in a locker, then took a leisurely stroll through Paris along the Seine (we decided against a swim after all – the queue was too long). We carried on through cool parks and stopped for a coffee with a view from the rooftop terrace. Paris as a intermediary destination, rather than just a change of trains: a welcome break that’s always worth it.
A Night on the Train
From Paris, we continued our journey on the nostalgic night train. The beds were soft and comfortable, and the carriages ran very smoothly. Anyone who didn’t want to go to sleep straight away could sit in a seat and read a book, watching the illuminated stations glide by in the night and the vast landscape roll past. This way of travelling has a rhythm all of its own: no crowds at the gate, no security checks. Just hop on, drift off to sleep and wake up the next morning in a new, unfamiliar place.
Arrival in Ax-les-Thermes
Ax-les-Thermes welcomed us as a small, quiet town in the heart of the Pyrenees. Not only is it very idyllic and has a pretty old town, it also makes an excellent base for an active holiday in the mountains. You’ll find plenty of sports enthusiasts and keen walkers here, as well as fine restaurants and an old town that invites you to linger. However, we’d come for the walking, so we soon set off from our accommodation again.
Four Days Hut to Hut
On the spur of the moment, we decided to go on a four-day hike through the Pyrenees, from hut to hut (similar to the Swiss SAC huts). Our stops: the Refuge de Besines, the Refuge d’en Beys and the Refuge de Camporells. Bookings were possible even at short notice, which is by no means a given. The landscape was breathtakingly beautiful and, despite the hot summer and the nearby forest fires, it was pleasantly cool at altitude. All around us, mountain lakes glistened, and we enjoyed taking a refreshing dip in them. It was also possible to pitch tents at the huts, which is certainly very appealing to budget travellers. Along the way, we also came across families travelling with a donkey to carry their luggage.
We enjoyed the babble of languages along the route: French, Spanish and Catalan mingled depending on the valley and the hut, an auditory echo of the border region between France, Spain and Andorra.
Getting Around with the Interrail Pass
For the trip, we used a 3-day Interrail pass, which we used not only for the journey to and from Paris but also for two short train journeys in the Pyrenees. We always particularly enjoy this third day of Interrail, as it gives us so much flexibility.
Homeward Into the Sunset
To round off our trip on a high note, after eight days in the mountains, we took the night train into the sunset and back to Paris. This journey shows just how much variety you can experience in a climate-friendly way: big cities and mountains, culture and nature – all without setting foot on a plane. As always, the journey itself was part of our destination.
About the author:
Andreas Riedhauser is a member of the board of Terran Switzerland and has preferred travelling by train for many years. In 2005, he travelled by train from Zurich to Hong Kong. As well as his involvement with Terran, he is also active in various other organisations.