Cycling Through the Czech Republic – Part 3
Day 4: The football season kicks off in Plzeň
Last night, before I went to bed, I had a quick look at today’s stage. I realised that I’d be starting the day with a fairly long climb, which I’d like to shorten a bit. So I’ve decided to take a bus from the city to the next town to save some precious energy. The day before yesterday, on a whim, I bought tickets for a football match in Pilsen, which means I have to leave the hotel and head for the stadium by 3.30 pm at the latest. That gave me enough excuses to allow myself this shortcut, and even so, there were still 90 km left to cycle – more than enough for Day 4, as my sit bones would agree.
So I leave the hotel at 7.15 and head into the city centre, where I hope to find a ticket office. I’m not yet entirely sure whether it’s even possible to take my bike on the bus, or exactly where the bus departs from. According to the online timetable, there should at least be a bus available. When I arrive at the station, I initially see few clues as to where the bus departs from, and no ticket office either. The only person I come across is a security officer, whom I immediately try to ask for information. Unfortunately, communication is quite difficult due to the language barrier. The man doesn’t speak any English, and – admittedly understandably – he finds it hard to follow my explanations, which involve a lot of hand gestures and body language. So I pull out my mobile to open a translation app. As I take it out, I notice a poster on the wall behind us advertising the bus company I’d like to use. So instead, I point at the poster and shrug my shoulders with as questioning a look as possible to illustrate my problem. The trick works, and I’m shown a flight of stairs that I’m supposed to go down. I thank him in broken Czech and stride down the stairs with my bike on my shoulder. There, a lady is waiting at a ticket counter, and apart from me, the station concourse is empty. Here, too, communication is very limited, but she makes it clear to me that, naturally, bus tickets aren’t sold at a railway ticket counter. At least, however, she can show me the way to the bus stops. The bus driver confirms that I can take my bike on the bus, once again communicating more with glances than with words.
A quarter of an hour later, I get off the bus and set off on today’s stage. I feel more refreshed than I have in the past few days and, having taken a slightly shorter route up the first climb, I now want to cycle all the way to Pilsen without taking any long breaks. I’m still captivated by the landscape here at the edge of the Ore Mountains. The elevation gain is taking its toll on my legs, but the views to the left and right make it all worthwhile. The countryside is covered in forests, which cool the air and enhance the peaceful atmosphere. It’s Saturday today, and there seem to be even fewer people out and about. Instead, I now come across other cyclists from time to time, and on the flat terrain I also see people on inline skates or out for a walk. The cycle paths here are even better than on the rest of the tour, probably because this area is more touristy.
After a few kilometres through woods and hills, I reach a more densely populated region around Pilsen once again. I complete one last long descent and have finally returned to the flatlands. The kilometres are coming off my legs very easily today, and I arrive in Pilsen as early as 1.00 pm, which, despite a stage that’s 15 km shorter, is still earlier than expected. As I can’t check into the hotel until 2.00 pm, I head to a shopping centre to grab some lunch. After checking in at the hotel and having a quick shower, I head into the city centre.
Pilsen is also a city well worth visiting, but that was to be expected. I’m now going to follow the sea of red; that way I won’t have to look up the route to the stadium. I’m glad that football is finally kicking off again, because there’s something very special about the atmosphere in the stadium. This is where the region comes together to rally behind its club, drawing hope and joy from the start of a new season and cheering on every move. Unfortunately, the match ends in defeat – I feel sorry for the fans – but it was lovely to be there and share the experience with them.
Afterwards, I have a few hours left to explore the city further. As I stroll through the streets, I reflect on the last few days and feel happy that I chose this tour, and proud of what I’ve achieved so far. Tomorrow is already the final stage, and then I can relax for a few days. One last push lies ahead, which I’d like to tackle and enjoy at the same time.
Day 5: The final push back to Germany
I had to prepare for the last day of the stage because it’s Sunday and I won’t be able to buy anything along the way. The night before, I popped into a Lidl and bought as many snacks as would fit in my rucksack. As well as the usual sweets and isotonic drinks, I picked up some nuts and a smoothie, which I’ll drink for breakfast. Breakfast was even included at the last hotel, so I wanted to pop over to the buffet for a quick look. As a vegan, however, I only found a few gherkins, tomatoes, toast and jam. I took a little of everything and sat down at a table. I don’t want to set off too late, though, as it was already getting quite hot by midday yesterday and I’ll be cycling about 20 km further today than originally planned. Because I’m feeling good and would like to spend a bit longer on the German cycle paths, I’ve spontaneously decided to cycle on to Cham, rather than just as far as Furth im Wald. So, just after 7.00 am, I hop on my bike for one last time – although it’s probably made of carbon – and set off for Germany.
At first, I’m winding my way through the Pilsen conurbation again, repeatedly crossing main roads and cycling through neighbourhoods, but before long I find myself back in the countryside, where I much prefer to be. As expected, the weather is sunny today, and the wind has turned against me. My legs are telling me I should slow down a bit today; my back is complaining that it’s had to carry all my luggage for over four days; and my sit bones have had enough anyway, but today I’m driven by the motivation to ride at a brisk pace once more.
In the woods near the border, the cycle paths are in perfect condition, and there are plenty of cyclists out and about today. That prompts me to set myself a goal for the day: so far on the whole trip, I haven’t been overtaken by a single cyclist, and I don’t want that to happen today either. When I spot two e-bike riders behind me in the woods near Babylon (that’s actually the name of the place), this goal comes under threat for the first time. I’d actually have liked to cycle a few more kilometres at a leisurely pace before taking my final break of the day 25 km before Cham, but that’s not going to happen now because of the determination that’s taken hold of me. So I start pedalling hard to build up a lead. Time and again, the road climbs a little, with the two of them practically breathing down my neck, and then it dips a little, giving me a chance to catch my breath. I don’t want to look back too often, either, so as not to look like a madman who feels he’s being followed. I don’t think I’m managing to do that. Well, be that as it may, after about 15 minutes I can no longer spot the two of them behind me. Perhaps they felt they were being watched and chose an alternative route, but I’d rather believe that I’ve shaken them off. Now I can relax and find a little bench from which to let my gaze wander over the woods around Babylon.
The last few kilometres of my 5–day tour are pretty much the easiest. There’s a steady headwind, but that just makes me all the more determined to reach Cham station as soon as possible. I know there’s a train to Munich every two hours, and I’d like to pop into a restaurant for something to eat and drink before it leaves. In the end, I go for a falafel dürüm, which seems a very fitting reward for the past few days, as falafel dürüm – or rather, falafel rolls – were pretty much my staple food during my exchange semester in Sweden and so hold a special nostalgic appeal for me. I’m happy and content.
Conclusion: I’d love to do it again!
To sum up, I can only say that I really enjoyed the trip and would love to do it again. Sure, it was a bit tiring at times, and of course my motivation wasn’t always at its highest – especially when, what felt like twenty minutes after my mobile told me I still had 73 km to go, it said there were only 72 km left to cover. But that’s quickly forgotten once you arrive at your destination. The positive feelings this experience evokes are far greater. A week in a foreign country with a foreign language, with nothing more to you than what fits into a rucksack. A week of slowing down, even though you’re constantly on the move. A week spent simply enjoying the surroundings you’re constantly passing through. And financially, too, the trip was satisfactory. Overall, I managed to keep the trip fairly cheap. The hotels all cost between CHF 30 and CHF 45, the trains (Zurich–Dresden & Munich–Zurich) CHF 58 and CHF 39, and the cost of food in the Czech Republic is also very affordable. Only the train from Cham to Munich was more expensive than expected – and more expensive than the one from Munich to Zurich – because I only booked it at the station. One could plan a bit more in advance here, although that’s probably only relevant to other students among the readers.