Cycling Through the Czech Republic – Part 2
Day 2: Across the Elbe and out into the countryside
The next day starts early again so that I can avoid the heat. As it turns out later, that wouldn’t have been necessary at all today. The first 20 km follow the Elbe once more, until I arrive in Lovosice. Here I wait for the small ferry, which takes pedestrians and cyclists across the water every half hour, as the receptionist at the hotel kindly translated for me from the website. I top up my energy with two muesli bars and a few Katjes bunnies whilst waiting for the ferry. My brother has always told me how great it is that on a cycle tour you can practically eat as many sweets as you like, as you’ll burn the energy off anyway. I can only agree with him.
On the other side of the Elbe, I have to use my mobile phone to find my way for the first time, as I’m now moving away from the river. I notice that the paths are actually very well signposted and well-maintained. I’d been worrying on the train that I’d be cycling mainly on gravel roads and forest tracks, but so far these worries have proved unfounded. The landscape is now becoming a bit hillier, villages are becoming fewer and farther between, and you can let your gaze wander over endless fields, meadows and woods. Today I’m able to lose myself in my audiobook whilst enjoying the natural surroundings. After just over 50 km, I arrive in Louny, where I’d like to have some lunch. In the town centre, there are cycle racks where I can lock up my bike so I can get about on foot for a moment, explore the town and find a restaurant.
I’m surprised by Louny, a little town that has more to offer than I’d first thought. In the end, I treat myself to a portion of spaghetti in a little pub to top up my carbohydrate reserves. Then I carry on through the agricultural region of north-western Czech Republic, which is increasingly characterised by hop cultivation. Just like the day before, I arrived back at the hotel shortly after 3.00 pm. Today I kept my long-sleeved top on, as it remained surprisingly cool all day. The ferryman warned me, however, that it would probably only stay this cool today. In the evening, I took a short stroll around Žatec. Here, too, I was surprised by just how beautiful the town is. There seems to be a rule in the Czech Republic that adjoining houses in a town must not be the same colour. This makes for some colourful photo opportunities. Afterwards, I treated myself to a pizza from the pizza van.
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Day 3: Heading into the Ore Mountains
It’s time for my ‘mountainous’ stage. The route takes me from Žatec to Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) through the foothills of the Krušné hory (Ore Mountains). The weather forecast is predicting plenty of sunshine today, so I opt once again for a long-sleeved top and sun cream on my legs and head. I notice that I’m making slightly slower progress today than on previous days, which is undoubtedly down to the constant ups and downs of the hilly terrain. Fortunately, I decide to make the most of the chance to stock up on food in Podborany and stock up on bread rolls, energy bars, a banana and two isotonic drinks at a supermarket. After that, I won’t come across any more shops for the rest of the day until I reach my destination.
Large parts of the Czech Hills seem virtually deserted. I only rarely come across a car, and I see practically no cyclists at all after Podborany. Instead, I pass through a small village every now and then, come across cows in their meadows, and recover from the more gruelling climbs with the well-earned views they offer. There are many churches here in the Czech Republic, even in places where there seem to be hardly any people living to visit them. Right now, I’m glad to find one of these churches in Valec. It gives me a chance to let my heart rate settle for a moment, stretch my legs and fuel up with some sweets in preparation for the next set of hills. I complete the rest of the stage without any further breaks, as most of the elevation gain is already behind me. Shortly before today’s destination – a sports hotel a few kilometres before Karlovy Vary – a fun descent begins, partly winding like a serpentine road, partly very direct and steep. The area is much more wooded than the ones I’ve passed through so far, and everything is so idyllic. I think I should suggest to my parents that they come here on holiday and go for walks through the woods. In places, I’m cycling on softer forest tracks and gravel roads, which is a pleasant change of pace. For the most part, however, the paths are still tarmacked, which is ideal for a fast and smooth ride.
In the evening, I cycle into town for a bit. Here, I not only tuck in to a hearty meal, but also do a bit of sightseeing and stock up on provisions for the penultimate stage of my journey. Karlovy Vary reminds me of cities like Vienna and Budapest, dotted with magnificent Wilhelminian-style façades and imposing spa buildings. The town is also much more touristy than any of the previous ones. The streets are full of people, coaches are parked outside the hotels, and much of the signage and information is in English and German. Overall, the town leaves me with an extremely positive impression.
(Part 3 to follow…)